Satin and taffeta can make beautiful hats, if you know how to work with these fabrics. Take care in handling the fabrics for best results.

Taffeta and satin do not stretch, so when using these materials choose a frame that can be covered with material cut on the bias, both brim and crown. Frame for all satin and taffeta hats must be padded with sheet wadding first. Padding does not stretch, and it must be free from wrinkles. To cover frame with padding smoothly, fit padding to frame and in smoothing out wrinkles pin the excess padding into darts and cut off excess padding on these darts.

This also must be very smooth so that the darts will not show through when satin or taffeta covering is applied. It is sometimes wise to tear the cotton padding sheet apart and use only half the thickness. Always allow several inches more than your exact measurements when cutting a bias because in stretching a bias in length the width is reduced.
Material Required

1 Sheet of sheet wadding
2/3 yd. taffeta or satin Frame
Lining and headband
Trimming
Padding Frame

Cover frame with sheet wadding, carefully making smooth darts on padding where needed. Padding does not stretch, so excess padding is fitted and clipped out in darts.

Covering Brim Top And Facing In One Piece

Measure brim top and facing at widest place and add 3″ to this measurement. Cut material on the bias and cut a bias strip to required measurement. Fold wrong side of bias strip lengthwise and slip center of folded material over brim edge, stretching and pinning all around brim. Pin ends together on the bias and cut off excess material.

Remove bias strip and stitch this, joining on the bias. Press seam. Put back on brim again, pinning all around brim edge. Pull material on top of brim, to bottom of crown and sew. Then, ease material on facing into head-size and sew around headsize 1/4″ from edge. Remember to put the brim on first’ and then do the crown.

Covering Crown

Cover top of crown. Then, measure width of side crown, add 3″ to this measurement, and cut a bias strip. Fit this bias strip to fit side crown. Seam the joining on the bias. Machine stitch and press seam. Return piece to side crown. Turn raw edge under 1/4″ (do not sew around top of crown). If side crown has been properly fitted it will be tight enough to stay in place without sewing. Sew side crown at bottom of crown, leaving a raw edge. Cut off any excess material, and finish with a blocked fold.

Blocking A Bias Fold

Cut 1″ piece of material on the bias. Turn raw edges under on both sides of piece. Pin one end of material to block, keeping raw edges turned under; stretch, pin and wrap all around block. Then, steam and allow to remain on block until thoroughly dry.

Take strip off block and pin to lower part of crown to cover the raw edges of material around crown. Sew where pinned only. Again, if bias fold is a true bias and properly blocked, it does not require any more sewing. Finish with a small bow made of an end of blocked taffeta fold.

Now you can enjoy wearing your hat.

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